The Big Finish....cheeks and lips

    The lip looks for Fall 2011 are classic - a beautiful nude lip that complemented the neutral tones in the rest of the makeup or a strong red lip that elevated the makeup to another level.  Both wearable...both beautiful...and both key looks to have in your cosmetic bag.
    For both looks there is only one place to start - exfoliation.  Starting with a smooth lip area will make both applications easier, and the final results will be stunning.  Any facial exfoliant can be used - massage the lips in a gentle circular motion, rinse off any product, and follow with a rich lip balm, blotting off any excess before you start the application. In a pinch you can mix a bit of honey with some sugar and follow the same instructions.

The Red Lip
You know the old saying that "practice makes perfect". And to apply a spectacular red lip you have to practice to gain confidence in your application. Start with a red lip liner that closely matches your lipstick shade.  Using a lip liner will essentially anchor your lipstick, helping to prevent the color from bleeding outside of the lip line.  And please fill in the entire lip with the liner.  Only lining the lip line will result in "ring around the lip" as the color in the center of the lip wears off leaving only the liner rimming the lip. NOT a pretty look ladies!  And so easy to prevent.
The final step is applying the lipstick.  For this you need a lip brush for precision and ease of application.  Taking a small amount of product onto the brush, start at the center of the lip and blend outward.  Take your time and color inside the lines the lip liner gives you.  Take a kleenex and gently blot the lips. Apply another light layer of color to the lips and blend.  This process will ensure a long lasting look with minimal worry - although part of the commitment of a red lip is maintenance, to ensure a clean look.
A much quicker option is to take your red lipstick and put a stoke of color in the center of both your upper and lower lips.  With your finger, blend the color outward, pressing it into the lips. This technique will create more of a stained look on the lips and will be long lasting as well.
MAC Cosmetics has a fantastic selection of reds in different finishes and textures so if you're unsure of what to choose, their line will give you many options.

The Nude Lip
For ease of application and wearability, the nude lip is  perfect for most makeup looks, especially if you like a stronger or more colorful eye. The key is to find a shade that doesn't wash you out.  For warmer complexions (a yellow or golden undertone)  find a shade with a warmer or peach-y hue.  If your complexion is cooler (a pink undertone) look for nude shades with a touch of pink.  I also recommend a lip liner for this look as it will block out any lip tone from showing through the lip product, which can effect the true nude look.  You can use a lip brush if you choose - but applying straight from the tube is fine too.
Revlon makes a great warm nude lipstick called Just Enough Buff...which compliments a surprising number of skin tones. Aveda's Sheer Clover lipstick has a light texture and just enough pink for cooler complexions.

The Great Debate  - Lipstick or Gloss?
Just choose your favorite texture and go for it.  Both have benefits and challenges. Gloss offers sheer wearable colour and ease of application.  Lipstick has longer wear and more opaque color.  Both of today's lip looks can be can be done with either type of product.  Simply follow the same techniques outlined above for both looks and top your liner with gloss instead of lipstick.  Experiment and play with these looks to find out what one works best for you.

A Shapely Cheek
The Fall 2011 cheek was lightly sculpted with neutral blush or bronzer.  The simplest way way to achieve this look is to look in the mirror and smile.  Find the fullest part or "apple" of the cheek and start by applying blush or bronzer to that area and then following the cheekbone, angle the blush slightly upward and towards the temple. Using a good blush brush will help you  to apply the product precisely and allow blending  as well, so you avoid any harsh lines.

How About a Little Pick Me Up?

  If I was asked to pick a favorite eye shadow shade - say if I could only bring one shade if I was stranded on a desert island - it would have to be lavender. Any shade - soft and pretty to bright and electric.  For years it has been my color of choice for anyone looking to enhance their eye color in a subtle way.  The beautiful thing about this shade is that it enhances any eye colour - blue, green, brown, or hazel - by creating contrast.  By using makeup to create contrast with the eye color you add definition without having to apply a lot of product.  It makes the look accessible to everyone.  From a sheer wash of colour to a graduation of shades from soft to rich and vibrant  - your skill level and makeup style will play into the choices that you make for this trend which will be prominent  on cosmetic counters this coming  Spring 2011. Now here is my suggestion - don't wait until spring to pick up one of these beautiful shades - the fresh color would be a nice bit of brightness in these deary winter months.  A little colour pick me up, perhaps?

Look to the eyes....

   I have found, throughout my years as a makeup artist, that most women find applying eye makeup to be the biggest challenge in their beauty routine. Whether it is what colours to choose, or how to apply shadow and liner - it is often just a few basic tips that will get you started and give you more confidence in your application technique.
  The eye looks that were prominent at this years Fall 2011 Fashion shows in New York featured graphic shapes and neutral tones.  Taupes, greys, and blacks were the colours of choice featured on both the eyes and in many of the designers creations worn by the models. The wonderful thing about these makeup looks is that they are quite wearable in the real world, and with some guidance, easy to apply.

1)  To adapt these trends, start with a satin finish cream coloured shadow (or one slightly lighter than your natural skin tone).  MAC Orb or Phloof are great options and both have a touch of shimmer to brighten the eyes. Taking a medium shadow brush (or your finger - which works as well) dust the shadow from your lash line to just under your brow.  This will create a base for the shadow and liner to come....

2)   To give dimension back to the eye, choose a taupe shadow (matte to metallic  - all were present on the runway)  and starting at the lash line, blend the shadow up to your crease - just below the brow bone - and up and out at the outer corner.  The trend featured a crisp line but softening it slightly with a brush or q-tip creates a more wearable look, especially for daytime.  If you want to experiment with the stronger lines, make sure you practice a bit to create the symmetry needed for this type of look.  Some product options are MAC shadow in Sketch or Style Snob, or the mid-tone shade from Aveda's shadow trio in Gobi Sands.

3)   To finish off the look line the upper and lower lash lines with a brown or black liner pencil and softly smudge with your finger, brush, or a q-tip.  An alternative?  Line the upper lash line with a pencil, and shade the lower lid  with the taupe shadow.  Its a softer look, and you don't have to worry about the those pesky little smudges under your eyes. My favorite eye liner of the moment?  Styli Style Automatic liner pencils - waterproof, smudgeproof, and just about the longest wearing liner I have found. In Canada I have only found them at Rexall/Pharmaplus, but they are well worth the search.  And they have some great shades to compliment the look you have created.
Don't forget to finish with a couple of coats of your favorite mascara - with an extra coat on the outer third of the lashes for a flirty finish...if you like.

   These application techniques can be used with any light and mid-tone shadows you have at home.  So take some time to experiment with your eye makeup....and don't forget to practice...the more you practice the easier it gets!

NEXT UP:  We finish the look with a choice of lip colours....and a shapely cheek.

Where do trends come from?

    I just read a great little article that discusses the evolution of fashion trends each season. Have you ever wondered why you see similar clothing styles in the most accessible to the highest end retailers? It is not just a coincidence.  It all starts with the fabric - which will influence all aspects of design, beauty, and decor as well. So you can get a lot of information about upcoming trends from Fashion Week....the influences will appear in many aspects of our lives in the months to come.   

Beauty Trends Seen at New York Fashion Week F/W 2011

  I love fashion week.  Beyond the excitement of seeing the future of fashion, I am eagerly studying the faces of the models as they work the runway.  I am looking for a glimpse of the future of beauty. And for fall/winter 2011, there are looks that can be worn by women of all ages and all tastes.  In the upcoming days i will break down the key looks seen on the runways and help you adapt  them to your look and skill level. The key will be step by step instructions and product recommendations to give you the confidence you need to recreate your favorite looks at home.

PART ONE - Complexion

   The above picture of a model from the Edun show is a great example of the luminous and glowing skin that dominated the catwalk. The key points to remember are sheer coverage and minimal powder for a clean and natural look.
     1) A solid skincare routine is the basis for any makeup look whether it has a natural or more a dramatic design.  So start with your regular skincare routine and pay extra attention to any dry areas requiring additional moisture.   Indoor heating and cold outdoor temperatures deplete moisture from our skin this time of year so hydrating your skin well will allow you to perfect your complexion with ease. Exfoliating will also help to smooth skin and keep it flake free.  A great one to try is Aveda's Botanical Kinetics Exfoliant.  It is a salicylic acid based product that you apply with a cotton pad just like a toner. It isn't a mechanical scrub that you rub on the face, and therefore is a great gentle option for all skin types.
    2)  Apply a sheer, lightweight foundation or tinted moisturizer to the entire face starting at the center and blending outward.  Most of us need more coverage in those areas so by starting at the center you get the most coverage where you need it and the least where you don't - which is towards the outer edges of the face.  I recommend using your fingers, or a foundation brush to apply the product to your skin. I find sponges soak up too much of the lighter weight foundations which wastes product and effects the application. Both Aveda, and Bobbi Brown make beautiful light textured foundations that have the added bonus of SPF so you are not only perfecting your complexion but protecting it from the sun as well.
   3) Now take a step back and look at yourself in the mirror.  Do you see any areas that need a bit of extra coverage? Dark circles? Blemishes or redness? If you need it then lightly apply a concealer to those areas and blend well.  If you are satisfied with the coverage from foundation only you can skip this step.

  
    4) To finish off the first stage of your look you only need a light dusting of powder that focuses on the t-zone area. The texture of the product you choose is up to you - loose or pressed powder will do fine - but make sure you use the proper tool. A fluffy brush will give the most diffused and natural finish and is a better choice over the powder puffs that come with most finishing products. Try  MAC Skinfinish which is a mineral based powder with some light reflectivity that sets your makeup without a dry or flat finish, or the loose powder from Smashbox which almost disappears into the skin yet keeps makeup fresh all day.

Now that you have perfected your complexion and have that luminous glow....its time to add some colour and focus on playing up your individual features. This is where the fun begins because you can be as creative or as classic as you like.

NEXT UP:  Focus on EYES....graphic shapes with neutral tones infused with shimmer