Quick, Easy, Pretty....

   Spring is just around the corner...right?  Because of that, i wanted to make a few suggestions that you can do to transition into the upcoming season, brighten up your makeup routine, and give youself a beautiful glow.

SKIN
  I can't stress this enough.....it doesn't matter how proficient you are at applying makeup...if you don't take proper care of your skin, your makeup will never look as good as it could.  This time of year exfoliation and moisturizer are two things you need to do to get your skin ready for makeup...and for spring.  Winter zaps our skin of moisture and often leaves our skin looking dull. Exfoliating your skin will expose the newer layers of skin underneath and leave it smoother and softer.  Following with a good moisturizer for your skin type will rehydrate the skin and allow a smooth application of your  foundation.  Exfoliating your skin also allows your moisturizer to penetrate better because your skin is now free of any barriers that may prevent the full benefit of  that product from sinking in.  For most of us, exfoliating once per week is enough.  Moisturizer should be a daily step in your beauty routine.
Once you have properly prepped your skin...follow with the foundation of your choice.  I am a fan of lightweight tinted moisturizers because they have the most natural finish and blend easily. Powder/dual foundation is an easy option but can also draw attention to small imperfections such as uneven texture and dry  flaky skin.

A WARM GLOW
    We all get a bit pale this time of year.  The easiest way to warm up the skin and give yourself some colour is to use bronzer.  You can use it alone, or as a finishing touch when paired with your favorite blush.  When choosing a bronzer, look for one that has a few shades combined in one compact.  A multi-tonal product will look more natural, and it removes the guess work when choosing a shade that best suits your skin tone.  Plus, nobody tans in just one colour.  Aveda's Bronze Glow Face Accent is a great choice, or you can try the Physicians Formula line which is available at most drugstores.  They offer a variety of bronzer types  that have different degrees of colour and shimmer.
 When applying bronzer you only have to remember a few things....think about where the sun hits your face when you look up 1) across the cheekbones  2)  across the forehead  3)  along the bridge of the nose  4) and on the tip of your chin.  Apply your product to those areas and blend well to create the most believable bronzed look.
My favourite product of the moment is from Urban Decay and is easily (and cheaply!) available at Wal-Mart. Its a pale shimmery mineral based bronzer called Tiki (pictured below)

that adds just a touch of  colour and compliments any makeup style.  This product works best if applied across the tops of your cheekbones, angling the brush towards the temple and finishing just above the center of the brow.  It is a nice compliment if your are wearing a coloured blush, but finishes our bronze look nicely too.

LIPS
  Choose your favourite lip product to finish the look.  Because the rest of the face is neutral,  feel free to play with some colour on the lips.  Most cosmetics companies have rolled out their Spring 2011 product lines so there are many options out there, at all price points.  Be prepared....the spring lip is bright and colourful....so you may want to try a sheer gloss if you are not comfortable with the opaque colour of a lipstick.

This is a quick and easy daytime look that can easily transform itself for nighttime too.  Apply some eyeliner (teal is the colour of the moment) and an extra coat of mascara for more impact, and you are ready to go!

Bullying Ourselves

Occasionally my writing will move away from the world of makeup to look at the world of beauty as a whole.  My work as a makeup artist has given me much insight into how women perceive themselves...their imperfections...their image to the world.  Beauty is much bigger than choosing the right shade of lipstick or blush....its about the whole person.


   The perception of beauty in North America has rarely strayed from its long standing definitions.  We are bombarded every day through magazines, the internet, advertisements, television, movies....it would be hard to avoid the "perfect" looks of celebrities and models, on a regular basis.  The unfortunate thing is that these visuals help form our views of ourselves from a young age.  Often those opinions can grow to be very negative and self defeating, regardless of how we might actually look.  Sometimes those thoughts move beyond our brains and we become physically abusive to ourselves...most often in the form of an eating disorder.  It is an extreme way to control what we think will make us better...a better person? a better employee? a better wife, mother, girlfriend?  Everyone has their own reasons for a negative self image.  We have all had those moments right?  Actually...according to a recent poll, about 97% of women have had those moments.

    Glamour Magazine released a poll last week that revealed that 97% of the over three hundred respondants to their most recent poll had at least one negative thought about their body over the course of one day. On average the same respondants had thirteen negative thoughts per day!  That is almost one negative thought per waking hour each day.  I felt sadness when i read this. I have my own reasons for that.  I've been there.  This September will be fourteen years since i sought  treatment for my eating disorder. I suffered from anorexia and bulimia for over ten years.  I know what it is like to feel so dissatisfied with yourself....so unhappy when you look in the mirror that you are willing to do anything to change what you see.  And now, at forty-one, I look back and realize how negative my view of myself was, for may reasons.  I wanted to be popular...have a boyfriend...i wanted to look like Phoebe Cates in Fast Times at Ridgemont High....or any of the popular girls in a John Hughes movie.  It was high school and i just wanted to fit in, and, for the most part, i did.  But i never seemed to outgrow my perception that i wasn't quite good enough.  These thoughts followed me to university and beyond.  As an adult, the disease changed for me and became almost more about the control i had over events in my life...and when things weren't going my way, i decided if i could control myself (eating, weight etc) than things would get better.  If i looked perfect...then my life would become perfect too.

    Well...that hasn't happened.  No matter what my weight, and shape have been...i have faced challenges in my life, like we all do.  How i perceive myself changes daily.  We all have good days and bad days.  What this poll  showed was that women are more likely to feel negatively about themselves when experiencing dissatisfaction with other areas in their life - work, relationships etc.  If we can control how people see us....then it will mask the other challenges we have in our life and give us control.  But if things don't get better we become more negative towards ourselves...and the occasional negative thought becomes habit.  And habit becomes our downfall.  So you have to learn to change your way of thinking.  It is not an easy task.  I chose a group therapy program and followed up with regular visits to an amazing drop in center called Sheena's Place.  I had to change the way i thought...about my myself and the events that happened in my life.  That is the most important step. And the only way to train your brain to think differently.  I'm not saying it is easy because i still have my moments.  To be honest....probably daily.  But i have learned to stop and remind myself  that having a more toned body...or having bigger breasts...or being prettier isn't what will get me that job, that guy, or whatever else i desire in my life.  Making a list of what you do like about yourself is another option.  It might be hard at first, but once you get started some ideas will come to you, especially if you think outside the box. Look beyond the physical, to your personality and your mind.  You may need help with all of this and there are a lot of resources out there to support and guide you...therapists, support groups, and friends to name a few.  Not all women will develop an eating disorder because of  a poor self-image and low self esteem....but at any level it is damaging, and needs to be acknowledged as an important issue for all women.

   I encourage you to read the article from Glamour. I believe most women will be able to relate to the information, and stories it tells.  Share the article with your friends and start some honest discussions.  The more we openly talk about these issues, the quicker we can start to change the ways that people think about, and view, themselves.

   When you finish reading this...i want you to close your eyes...take a deep cleansing breath...and think of one thing that you like about yourself.  Go to sleep with that thought on your mind, and try to remember it when you first wake up in the morning.  You just might wake up looking at your day (and yourself) a little differently.

  

The Big Finish....cheeks and lips

    The lip looks for Fall 2011 are classic - a beautiful nude lip that complemented the neutral tones in the rest of the makeup or a strong red lip that elevated the makeup to another level.  Both wearable...both beautiful...and both key looks to have in your cosmetic bag.
    For both looks there is only one place to start - exfoliation.  Starting with a smooth lip area will make both applications easier, and the final results will be stunning.  Any facial exfoliant can be used - massage the lips in a gentle circular motion, rinse off any product, and follow with a rich lip balm, blotting off any excess before you start the application. In a pinch you can mix a bit of honey with some sugar and follow the same instructions.

The Red Lip
You know the old saying that "practice makes perfect". And to apply a spectacular red lip you have to practice to gain confidence in your application. Start with a red lip liner that closely matches your lipstick shade.  Using a lip liner will essentially anchor your lipstick, helping to prevent the color from bleeding outside of the lip line.  And please fill in the entire lip with the liner.  Only lining the lip line will result in "ring around the lip" as the color in the center of the lip wears off leaving only the liner rimming the lip. NOT a pretty look ladies!  And so easy to prevent.
The final step is applying the lipstick.  For this you need a lip brush for precision and ease of application.  Taking a small amount of product onto the brush, start at the center of the lip and blend outward.  Take your time and color inside the lines the lip liner gives you.  Take a kleenex and gently blot the lips. Apply another light layer of color to the lips and blend.  This process will ensure a long lasting look with minimal worry - although part of the commitment of a red lip is maintenance, to ensure a clean look.
A much quicker option is to take your red lipstick and put a stoke of color in the center of both your upper and lower lips.  With your finger, blend the color outward, pressing it into the lips. This technique will create more of a stained look on the lips and will be long lasting as well.
MAC Cosmetics has a fantastic selection of reds in different finishes and textures so if you're unsure of what to choose, their line will give you many options.

The Nude Lip
For ease of application and wearability, the nude lip is  perfect for most makeup looks, especially if you like a stronger or more colorful eye. The key is to find a shade that doesn't wash you out.  For warmer complexions (a yellow or golden undertone)  find a shade with a warmer or peach-y hue.  If your complexion is cooler (a pink undertone) look for nude shades with a touch of pink.  I also recommend a lip liner for this look as it will block out any lip tone from showing through the lip product, which can effect the true nude look.  You can use a lip brush if you choose - but applying straight from the tube is fine too.
Revlon makes a great warm nude lipstick called Just Enough Buff...which compliments a surprising number of skin tones. Aveda's Sheer Clover lipstick has a light texture and just enough pink for cooler complexions.

The Great Debate  - Lipstick or Gloss?
Just choose your favorite texture and go for it.  Both have benefits and challenges. Gloss offers sheer wearable colour and ease of application.  Lipstick has longer wear and more opaque color.  Both of today's lip looks can be can be done with either type of product.  Simply follow the same techniques outlined above for both looks and top your liner with gloss instead of lipstick.  Experiment and play with these looks to find out what one works best for you.

A Shapely Cheek
The Fall 2011 cheek was lightly sculpted with neutral blush or bronzer.  The simplest way way to achieve this look is to look in the mirror and smile.  Find the fullest part or "apple" of the cheek and start by applying blush or bronzer to that area and then following the cheekbone, angle the blush slightly upward and towards the temple. Using a good blush brush will help you  to apply the product precisely and allow blending  as well, so you avoid any harsh lines.

How About a Little Pick Me Up?

  If I was asked to pick a favorite eye shadow shade - say if I could only bring one shade if I was stranded on a desert island - it would have to be lavender. Any shade - soft and pretty to bright and electric.  For years it has been my color of choice for anyone looking to enhance their eye color in a subtle way.  The beautiful thing about this shade is that it enhances any eye colour - blue, green, brown, or hazel - by creating contrast.  By using makeup to create contrast with the eye color you add definition without having to apply a lot of product.  It makes the look accessible to everyone.  From a sheer wash of colour to a graduation of shades from soft to rich and vibrant  - your skill level and makeup style will play into the choices that you make for this trend which will be prominent  on cosmetic counters this coming  Spring 2011. Now here is my suggestion - don't wait until spring to pick up one of these beautiful shades - the fresh color would be a nice bit of brightness in these deary winter months.  A little colour pick me up, perhaps?

Look to the eyes....

   I have found, throughout my years as a makeup artist, that most women find applying eye makeup to be the biggest challenge in their beauty routine. Whether it is what colours to choose, or how to apply shadow and liner - it is often just a few basic tips that will get you started and give you more confidence in your application technique.
  The eye looks that were prominent at this years Fall 2011 Fashion shows in New York featured graphic shapes and neutral tones.  Taupes, greys, and blacks were the colours of choice featured on both the eyes and in many of the designers creations worn by the models. The wonderful thing about these makeup looks is that they are quite wearable in the real world, and with some guidance, easy to apply.

1)  To adapt these trends, start with a satin finish cream coloured shadow (or one slightly lighter than your natural skin tone).  MAC Orb or Phloof are great options and both have a touch of shimmer to brighten the eyes. Taking a medium shadow brush (or your finger - which works as well) dust the shadow from your lash line to just under your brow.  This will create a base for the shadow and liner to come....

2)   To give dimension back to the eye, choose a taupe shadow (matte to metallic  - all were present on the runway)  and starting at the lash line, blend the shadow up to your crease - just below the brow bone - and up and out at the outer corner.  The trend featured a crisp line but softening it slightly with a brush or q-tip creates a more wearable look, especially for daytime.  If you want to experiment with the stronger lines, make sure you practice a bit to create the symmetry needed for this type of look.  Some product options are MAC shadow in Sketch or Style Snob, or the mid-tone shade from Aveda's shadow trio in Gobi Sands.

3)   To finish off the look line the upper and lower lash lines with a brown or black liner pencil and softly smudge with your finger, brush, or a q-tip.  An alternative?  Line the upper lash line with a pencil, and shade the lower lid  with the taupe shadow.  Its a softer look, and you don't have to worry about the those pesky little smudges under your eyes. My favorite eye liner of the moment?  Styli Style Automatic liner pencils - waterproof, smudgeproof, and just about the longest wearing liner I have found. In Canada I have only found them at Rexall/Pharmaplus, but they are well worth the search.  And they have some great shades to compliment the look you have created.
Don't forget to finish with a couple of coats of your favorite mascara - with an extra coat on the outer third of the lashes for a flirty finish...if you like.

   These application techniques can be used with any light and mid-tone shadows you have at home.  So take some time to experiment with your eye makeup....and don't forget to practice...the more you practice the easier it gets!

NEXT UP:  We finish the look with a choice of lip colours....and a shapely cheek.

Where do trends come from?

    I just read a great little article that discusses the evolution of fashion trends each season. Have you ever wondered why you see similar clothing styles in the most accessible to the highest end retailers? It is not just a coincidence.  It all starts with the fabric - which will influence all aspects of design, beauty, and decor as well. So you can get a lot of information about upcoming trends from Fashion Week....the influences will appear in many aspects of our lives in the months to come.   

Beauty Trends Seen at New York Fashion Week F/W 2011

  I love fashion week.  Beyond the excitement of seeing the future of fashion, I am eagerly studying the faces of the models as they work the runway.  I am looking for a glimpse of the future of beauty. And for fall/winter 2011, there are looks that can be worn by women of all ages and all tastes.  In the upcoming days i will break down the key looks seen on the runways and help you adapt  them to your look and skill level. The key will be step by step instructions and product recommendations to give you the confidence you need to recreate your favorite looks at home.

PART ONE - Complexion

   The above picture of a model from the Edun show is a great example of the luminous and glowing skin that dominated the catwalk. The key points to remember are sheer coverage and minimal powder for a clean and natural look.
     1) A solid skincare routine is the basis for any makeup look whether it has a natural or more a dramatic design.  So start with your regular skincare routine and pay extra attention to any dry areas requiring additional moisture.   Indoor heating and cold outdoor temperatures deplete moisture from our skin this time of year so hydrating your skin well will allow you to perfect your complexion with ease. Exfoliating will also help to smooth skin and keep it flake free.  A great one to try is Aveda's Botanical Kinetics Exfoliant.  It is a salicylic acid based product that you apply with a cotton pad just like a toner. It isn't a mechanical scrub that you rub on the face, and therefore is a great gentle option for all skin types.
    2)  Apply a sheer, lightweight foundation or tinted moisturizer to the entire face starting at the center and blending outward.  Most of us need more coverage in those areas so by starting at the center you get the most coverage where you need it and the least where you don't - which is towards the outer edges of the face.  I recommend using your fingers, or a foundation brush to apply the product to your skin. I find sponges soak up too much of the lighter weight foundations which wastes product and effects the application. Both Aveda, and Bobbi Brown make beautiful light textured foundations that have the added bonus of SPF so you are not only perfecting your complexion but protecting it from the sun as well.
   3) Now take a step back and look at yourself in the mirror.  Do you see any areas that need a bit of extra coverage? Dark circles? Blemishes or redness? If you need it then lightly apply a concealer to those areas and blend well.  If you are satisfied with the coverage from foundation only you can skip this step.

  
    4) To finish off the first stage of your look you only need a light dusting of powder that focuses on the t-zone area. The texture of the product you choose is up to you - loose or pressed powder will do fine - but make sure you use the proper tool. A fluffy brush will give the most diffused and natural finish and is a better choice over the powder puffs that come with most finishing products. Try  MAC Skinfinish which is a mineral based powder with some light reflectivity that sets your makeup without a dry or flat finish, or the loose powder from Smashbox which almost disappears into the skin yet keeps makeup fresh all day.

Now that you have perfected your complexion and have that luminous glow....its time to add some colour and focus on playing up your individual features. This is where the fun begins because you can be as creative or as classic as you like.

NEXT UP:  Focus on EYES....graphic shapes with neutral tones infused with shimmer